Only accessible by 4×4 vehicles (yes they mean it, it includes very steep gravel roads and several river crossings), there’s a 50km road up to Laki – a quite high volcano in the middle of the volcanic system Lakagígar which erupted in 1783 and caused worldwide temperature drops. Laki itself didn’t errupt back then but the view from up there over the crater fields stretching SW-NE is just encredible. On a good day you can even see both Mýrdalsjökull and Vatnajökull glaciers on the horizon.
A very cute italian couple gave me a lift up that road to Laki in their old but super equipped Landrover, you should have seen the smile of the man’s face driving through the rivers.
After i walked up a small trail to Laki summit I consulted the rangers there about hiking trails, and got a superb route together. That route took me along the lakes Lambavatn and Kambavatn, up and along the mountain ridge of Kambar with an astonishing view over the other valley stretching out northeast. It was pretty stormy up there but my heavy backpack kept me grounded.
I found shelter from the wind in the river valley south of Kambar where I made camp for the night. Next day the wind calmed down and I could enjoy the hike along the river valley, passing a beautiful pretty wide waterfall and after a couple of hours joining back with the gravel road. Follow this road – or take some sheep-track shortcuts through the lava fields if you’re walking – leads you to the Blagil Campsite right at the edge of the 250 year old lava, a really cozy place with lots of camp space, a mountain hut which you can also use for cooking or warming up only for a reduced fee, and you might meet the rangers again since they stay here over night.
Actually I got a bit seduced by the scenic campgrounds and the cozy hut that i stayed another day and night before hitching back the gravel road [F206] south to route , to continue the road trip along the south coast.